Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. I often print at 60C bed.ģ) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. This glue works well for most plastics.Ģ) Heat the bed. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. On the UM2 you should be printing on glass.ġ) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks.
But this is not the best solution - the best solution is to just make it "stick like hell" to the bed. One (not necessary) solution is to keep the air at the glass temperature for the material you are printing which for PLA this is about 50C. The problem is that the material shrinks as it cools and as the upper layers cool (say 2mm above the base) it is pulling hard inward like bungee cords pulling the walls inward. This is a very common problem with very easy solutions (curling corners).